Black beauty in Britain since 1948: self-assertion and collective power

This research explores the performance of Black beauty in Britain since 1948.

It uncovers the cultural, economic and political significance of Black British women’s beauty practices, showing how these practices have supported self‑agency, carried subversive political messages and created opportunities for entrepreneurship.

By investigating Black beauty practices since 1948, this project offers a necessary counter‑narrative to traditional histories that have often overlooked the experiences and contributions of Black women.

It tackles systemic exclusion by reframing beauty not as a cosmetic concern, but as a source of socio‑economic empowerment and political resistance. By documenting the development of Black beauty entrepreneurship, the research shows how Black women continue to carve out spaces for self‑ and collective agency. In doing so, it supports wider goals of diversity and inclusion, helping build a more representative and equitable account of British history and national heritage.

This research stands out for its interdisciplinary approach and long historical scope, tracing a continuous lineage from 1948 to today. Its strength lies in its holistic view: instead of focusing on a single medium, it brings together a wide range of beauty practices — from salons and pageants to self‑assertive hairstyles and cosmetics — into one cultural history. By combining archival material such as photographs, magazines, community newsletters and periodicals with multi‑sited ethnographic data, the project uncovers historical and contemporary insights that have been largely overlooked. This approach offers a fuller understanding of how identity and agency are performed across social spaces, and maps how Black beauty entrepreneurs continue to shape global aesthetic norms.

Our approach

This research investigates the cultural, economic and political significance of Black beauty practices in Britain from 1948 to today. Traditional histories of beauty have been shaped through a white‑centric lens, rooted in a colonial “colour caste system” that privileges Western features, lighter skin and straight hair. This project offers a vital counter‑narrative by foregrounding the role of Black British women and entrepreneurs in redefining beauty as a source of self‑agency, political resistance and economic independence.

Beginning in 1948, after the British Nationality Act, the study traces how Black Africans in Britain were marginalised and often portrayed as symbols of national decline. In this environment, Black women used “style narratives” as a quiet form of resistance. By adapting the “soul style” and establishing Caribbean festivals and Carnival Queen contests between 1959 and 1964, they challenged white beauty ideals and reshaped ideas of Black femininity. After decades of exclusion from the mainstream industry, Black beauty practices now represent a powerful area of entrepreneurship, placing Black beauticians at the forefront of challenging Westernised standards. The project explores how these practices have been reclaimed as tools for empowerment over time.

The research stands out for its interdisciplinary approach and long historical scope. It brings together a wide range of beauty practices - from salons and pageants to self‑assertive hairstyles and cosmetics - into one cultural history. By combining archival material such as photographs, magazines, community newsletters and periodicals with multi‑sited ethnographic and oral‑history data collected across Britain, the project uncovers insights that have been largely overlooked. This approach offers a fuller understanding of how identity and agency are performed across social spaces and maps how Black beauty entrepreneurs continue to shape global aesthetic norms.